I somehow managed to squeeze in a climbing weekend, just two weeks prior to the big day. Brian Burgess and Brian Frandsen were both in town, and we wanted to head for something away from the crowds, and not so strenuous that we’d be grunting in the springtime Vegas heat. Not yet in the guidebooks, we found a climb on Mountain Project called Bourbon Street, in the easily accessible Black Velvet Canyon.

We arrived at the trailhead around 6am, and were surprised to find two other cars that had beaten us there. Black Velvet is full of super classics, so we weren’t too concerned that they would be on this seldom climbed route. We decided to break the climb up into blocks, with Burgess leading the first two, Frandsen taking the next, and I would wrap up the remaining three short pitches.


The first two pitches were excellent, typically wonderful Redrocks moderate climbing. The second pitch shines with a thin hands splitter crack, that proved to be the crux of the route, at 5.8+. It felt amazing to get some air under my heals again, even though I was feeling a little weak and a lot heavier than last time I was roped in.
On the second pitch we got a little scare. Burgess was about 80′ up when he weighted a foot just a bit more than the last guy up the climb, and cracked off a grapefruit sized chunk of sandstone. I was at the belay ledge with Brian Frandsen directly below, and heard Burgess’ yell “Roooock!!”. I tucked into the rock wall in front of me, and Brian, who was sitting below and outside of me, curled in as much as possible. The rock flew down, making impact with the rock Brian was sitting on, grazing his ankle and removing a bit of skin. If he hadn’t moved in to his left that 10″ or so, I’d be telling a much different story right now! He escaped with just a sore ankle, and we were all a bit spooked and a lot more careful about our footing after that.

The remaining pitches were fun face climbing. Protection was kind of dicey and run-out at times…that’s one way to make 5.6 climbing exciting! The route finding was tough without a clear crack system to follow. Hence my confusion above.

Climbing in a group of 3, with a single leader, and two followers climbing together on the double ropes turned out to be super fun and relatively efficient. It was cool to have some companionship at the belays, and even more fun to be watching your partner climb above/below you without having to worry about belaying them.
Great climb! I’m not sure I’d recommend it above Frogland, which I climbed last summer, but it was something I’d recommend on a busy springtime day in Redrocks.
Thanks for coming out Burgess and Frandsen!